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Buying a Used Car
Do
your homework and you won't get a lemon.
Before you start
shopping for a car, you'll need to do some homework. Spending time now
may save you serious money later. Think about your driving habits,
your needs, and your budget. You can learn about car models, options,
and prices by reading newspaper ads, both display and classified.
There is a wealth of information about used cars on the Internet:
enter "used car" as the key words and you'll find additional
information on how to buy a used car, detailed instructions for
conducting a pre-purchase inspection, and ads for cars available for
sale, among other information. Libraries and book stores also have
publications that compare car models, options, and costs, and offer
information about frequency-of-repair records, safety tests, and
mileage. Many of these publications have details on the do's and
don'ts of buying a used car.
Once you've narrowed
your car choices, research the frequency of repair and maintenance
costs on the models in auto-related consumer magazines. The U.S.
Department of Transportation's Auto Safety Hotline (800-424-9393)
gives information on recalls.
You have two choices:
pay in full or finance over time. If you finance, the total cost of
the car increases. That's because you're also paying for the cost of
credit, which includes interest and other loan costs. You'll also have
to consider how much you can put down, your monthly payment, the
length of the loan, and the annual percentage rate (APR). Keep in mind
that annual percentage rates usually are higher and loan periods
generally are shorter on used cars than on new ones.
Dealers and lenders
offer a variety of loan terms and payment schedules. Shop around,
compare offers, and negotiate the best deal you can. Be cautious about
advertisements offering financing to first-time buyers or people with
bad credit. These offers often require a big down payment and a high
APR. If you agree to financing that carries a high APR, you may be
taking a big risk. If you decide to sell the car before the loan
expires, the amount you receive from the sale may be far less than the
amount you need to pay off the loan. If the car is repossessed or
declared a total loss because of an accident, you may be obligated to
pay a considerable amount to repay the loan even after the proceeds
from the sale of the car or the insurance payment have been deducted.
If your budget is tight, you may want to consider paying cash for a
less expensive car than you first had in mind.
If you decide to
finance, make sure you understand the following aspects of the loan
agreement before you sign any documents:
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the exact price
you're paying for the vehicle
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the amount you're
financing
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the finance charge
(the dollar amount the credit will cost you)
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the APR (a measure
of the cost of credit, expressed as a yearly rate)
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the number and
amount of payments
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the total sales
price (the sum of the monthly payments plus the down payment) Used
cars are sold through a variety of outlets: franchise and
independent dealers, rental car companies, leasing companies, and
used car superstores. You can even buy a used car on the Internet.
Ask friends, relatives and co-workers for recommendations. You may
want to call your local consumer protection agency, state Attorney
General (AG), and the Better Business Bureau (BBB) to find out if
any unresolved complaints are on file about a particular dealer.
Some dealers are
attracting customers with "no-haggle prices," "factory
certified" used cars, and better warranties. Consider the
dealer's reputation when you evaluate these ads.
Dealers are not required
by law to give used car buyers a three-day right to cancel. The right
to return the car in a few days for a refund exists only if the dealer
grants this privilege to buyers. Dealers may describe the right to
cancel as a "cooling-off" period, a money-back guarantee, or
a "no questions asked" return policy. Before you purchase
from a dealer, ask about the dealer's return policy, get it in writing
and read it carefully.
The Federal Trade
Commission's Used Car Rule requires dealers to post a Buyers Guide in
every used car they offer for sale. This includes light-duty vans,
light-duty trucks, demonstrators, and program cars. Demonstrators are
new cars that have not been owned, leased, or used as rentals, but
have been driven by dealer staff. Program cars are low-mileage,
current-model-year vehicles returned from short-term leases or
rentals. Buyers Guides do not have to be posted on motorcycles and
most recreational vehicles. Anyone who sells less than six cars a year
doesn’t have to post a Buyers Guide.
The Buyers
Guide must tell you:
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whether the vehicle
is being sold "as is" or with a warranty
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what percentage of
the repair costs a dealer will pay under the warranty
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that spoken promises
are difficult to enforce
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to get all promises
in writing
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to keep the Buyers
Guide for reference after the sale
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the major mechanical
and electrical systems on the car, including some of the major
problems you should look out for
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to ask to have the
car inspected by an independent mechanic before you buy.
When you buy a used car
from a dealer, get the original Buyers Guide that was posted in the
vehicle, or a copy. The Guide must reflect any negotiated changes in
warranty coverage. It also becomes part of your sales contract and
overrides any contrary provisions. For example, if the Buyers Guide
says the car comes with a warranty and the contract says the car is
sold "as is," the dealer must give you the warranty
described in the Guide. When the dealer offers a vehicle "as
is," the box next to the "As Is - No Warranty"
disclosure on the Buyers Guide must be checked. If the box is checked
but the dealer promises to repair the vehicle or cancel the sale if
you're not satisfied, make sure the promise is written on the Buyers
Guide. Otherwise, you may have a hard time getting the dealer to make
good on his word. Some states, including Connecticut, Kansas, Maine,
Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Mississippi, New Jersey, New York,
Rhode Island, Vermont, West Virginia and the District of Columbia,
don't allow "as is" sales for many used vehicles.
Three
states—Louisiana, New Hampshire, and Washington—require different
disclosures than those on the Buyers Guide. If the dealer fails to
provide proper state disclosures, the sale is not "as is."
To find out what disclosures are required for "as is" sales
in your state, contact your state Attorney General.
State laws hold dealers
responsible if cars they sell don't meet reasonable quality standards.
These obligations are called implied warranties—unspoken, unwritten
promises from the seller to the buyer. However, dealers in most states
can use the words "as is" or "with all faults" in
a written notice to buyers to eliminate implied warranties. There is
no specified time period for implied warranties.
Warranty of
Merchantability
The most common type
of implied warranty is the warranty of merchantability: The seller
promises that the product offered for sale will do what It’s
supposed to. That a car will run is an example of a warranty of
merchantability. This promise applies to the basic functions of a car.
It does not cover everything that could go wrong.
Breakdowns and other
problems after the sale don't prove the seller breached the warranty
of merchantability. A breach occurs only if the buyer can prove that a
defect existed at the time of sale. A problem that occurs after the
sale may be the result of a defect that existed at the time of sale or
not. As a result, a dealer's liability is judged case-by-case.
Warranty of Fitness for
a Particular Purpose
A warranty of fitness
for a particular purpose applies when you buy a vehicle based on the
dealer's advice that it is suitable for a particular use. For example,
a dealer who suggests you buy a specific vehicle for hauling a trailer
in effect is promising that the vehicle will be suitable for that
purpose.
If you have a written
warranty that doesn’t cover your problems, you still may have
coverage through implied warranties. That's because when a dealer
sells a vehicle with a written warranty or service contract, implied
warranties are included automatically. The dealer can't delete this
protection. Any limit on an implied warranty's time must be included
on the written warranty.
In states that don't
allow "as is" sales, an "Implied Warranties Only"
disclosure is printed on the Buyers Guide in place of the "As
Is" disclosure. The box beside this disclosure will be checked if
the dealer decides to sell the car with no written warranty.
In states that do allow
"as is" sales, the "Implied Warranties Only"
disclosure should appear on the Buyers Guide if the dealer decides to
sell a vehicle with implied warranties and no written warranty. A copy
of the Buyers Guide with the "Implied Warranties Only"
disclosure is available here.
Dealers who offer a
written warranty must complete the warranty section of the Buyers
Guide. Because terms and conditions vary, it may be useful to compare
and negotiate coverage.
Dealers may offer a full
or limited warranty on all or some of a vehicle's systems or
components. Most used car warranties are limited and their coverage
varies. A full warranty includes the following terms and conditions:
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Anyone who owns the
vehicle during the warranty period is entitled to warranty
service.
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Warranty service
will be provided free of charge, including such costs as removing
and reinstalling a covered system.
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You have the choice
of a replacement or a full refund if, after a reasonable number of
tries, the dealer cannot repair the vehicle or a covered system.
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You only have to
tell the dealer that warranty service is needed in order to get
it, unless the dealer can prove that it is reasonable to require
you to do more.
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Implied warranties
have no time limits.
If any of these
statements doesn’t apply, the warranty is limited.
A full or limited
warranty doesn’t have to cover the entire vehicle. The dealer may
specify that only certain systems are covered. Some parts or systems
may be covered by a full warranty; others by a limited warranty.
The dealer must check
the appropriate box on the Buyers Guide to indicate whether the
warranty is full or limited and the dealer must include the following
information in the "Warranty" section:
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the percentage of
the repair cost that the dealer will pay. For example, "the
dealer will pay 100 percent of the labor and 100 percent of the
parts . . .";
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the specific parts
and systems—such as the frame, body, or brake system—that are
covered by the warranty. The back of the Buyers Guide lists the
major systems where problems may occur;
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the warranty term
for each covered system. For example, "30 days or 1,000
miles, whichever comes first"; and
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whether there's a
deductible and, if so, how much.
You have the right to
see a copy of the dealer's warranty before you buy. Review it
carefully to determine what is covered. The warranty gives detailed
information, such as how to get repairs for a covered system or part.
It also tells who is legally responsible for fulfilling the terms of
the warranty. If It’s a third party, investigate their reputation
and whether they're insured. Find out the name of the insurer, and
call to verify the information. Then check out the third-party company
with your local Better Business Bureau. That's not foolproof, but it
is prudent. Make sure you receive a copy of the dealer's warranty
document if you buy a car that is offered with a warranty.
If the manufacturer's
warranty still is in effect, the dealer may include it in the
"systems covered/duration" section of the Buyers Guide. To
make sure you can take advantage of the coverage, ask the dealer for
the car's warranty documents. Verify the information (what's covered,
expiration date/miles, necessary paperwork) by calling the
manufacturer's zone office. Make sure you have the Vehicle
Identification Number (VIN) when you call.
Like a warranty, a
service contract provides repair and/or maintenance for a specific
period. But warranties are included in the price of a product, while
service contracts cost extra and are sold separately. To decide if you
need a service contract, consider whether:
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the service contract
duplicates warranty coverage or offers protection that begins
after the warranty runs out. Does the service contract extend
beyond the time you expect to own the car? If so, is the service
contract transferable or is a shorter contract available?
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the vehicle is
likely to need repairs and their potential costs. You can
determine the value of a service contract by figuring whether the
cost of repairs is likely to exceed the price of the contract.
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the service contract
covers all parts and systems. Check out all claims carefully. For
example, "bumper to bumper" coverage may not mean what
you think.
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a deductible is
required and, if so, the amount and terms.
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the contract covers
incidental expenses, such as towing and rental car charges while
your car is being serviced.
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repairs and routine
maintenance, such as oil changes, have to be done at the dealer.
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there's a
cancellation and refund policy for the service contract and,
whether there are cancellation fees.
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the dealer or
company offering the service contract is reputable. Read the
contract carefully to determine who is legally responsible for
fulfilling the terms of the contract. Some dealers sell
third-party service contracts.
The dealer must check
the appropriate box on the Buyers Guide if a service contract is
offered, except in states where service contracts are regulated by
insurance laws. If the Guide doesn’t include a service contract
reference and you're interested in buying one, ask the salesperson for
more information.
If you buy a service
contract from the dealer within 90 days of buying a used vehicle,
federal law prohibits the dealer from eliminating implied warranties
on the systems covered in the contract. For example, if you buy a car
"as is," the car normally is not covered by implied
warranties. But if you buy a service contract covering the engine, you
automatically get implied warranties on the engine. These may give you
protection beyond the scope of the service contract. Make sure you get
written confirmation that your service contract is in effect.
The Buyers Guide
cautions you not to rely on spoken promises. They are difficult to
enforce because there may not be any way for a court to determine with
any confidence what was said. Get all promises written into the Guide.
Pre-Purchase
Independent Inspection
It's best to have any
used car inspected by an independent mechanic before you buy it. For
about $100 or less, you'll get a general indication of the mechanical
condition of the vehicle. An inspection is a good idea even if the car
has been "certified" and inspected by the dealer and is
being sold with a warranty or service contract. A mechanical
inspection is different from a safety inspection. Safety inspections
usually focus on conditions that make a car unsafe to drive. They are
not designed to determine the overall reliability or mechanical
condition of a vehicle.
To find a pre-purchase
inspection facility, check your Yellow Pages under "Automotive
Diagnostic Service" or ask friends, relatives and co-workers for
referrals. Look for facilities that display certifications like an
Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) seal. Certification indicates that
some or all of the technicians meet basic standards of knowledge and
competence in specific technical areas. Make sure the certifications
are current, but remember that certification alone is no guarantee of
good or honest work. Also ask to see current licenses if state or
local law requires such facilities to be licensed or registered. Check
with your state Attorney General's office or local consumer protection
agency to find out whether there's a record of complaints about
particular facilities.
There are no standard
operating procedures for pre-purchase inspections. Ask what the
inspection includes, how long it takes, and the price. Get this
information in writing.
If the dealer won't let
you take the car off the lot, perhaps because of insurance
restrictions, you may be able to find a mobile inspection service that
will go to the dealer. If that's not an option, ask the dealer to have
the car inspected at a facility you designate. You will have to pay
the inspection fee.
Once the vehicle has
been inspected, ask the mechanic for a written report with a cost
estimate for all necessary repairs. Be sure the report includes the
vehicle's make, model and VIN. Make sure you understand every item. If
you decide to make a purchase offer to the dealer after considering
the inspection's results, you can use the estimated repair costs to
negotiate the price of the vehicle.
The Buyers Guide lists
an auto's 14 major systems and some serious problems that may occur in
each. This list may help you and your mechanic evaluate the mechanical
condition of the vehicle. The list also may help you compare
warranties offered on different cars or by different dealers.
The back of the Buyers
Guide lists the name and address of the dealership. It also gives the
name and telephone number of the person you should contact at the
dealership if you have problems or complaints after the sale.
The dealer may include a
buyer's signature line at the bottom of the Buyers Guide. If the line
is included, the following statement must be written or printed close
to it: "I hereby acknowledge receipt of the Buyers Guide at the
closing of this sale." Your signature means you received the
Buyers Guide at closing. It does not mean that the dealer complied
with the Rule's other requirements, such as posting a Buyers Guide in
all the vehicles offered for sale.
If you buy a used car
and the sales discussion is conducted in Spanish, you are entitled to
see and keep a Spanish-language version of the Buyers Guide.
An alternative to buying
from a dealer is buying from an individual. You may see ads in
newspapers, on bulletin boards, or on a car. Buying a car from a
private party is very different from buying a car from a dealer.
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Private sellers
generally are not covered by the Used Car Rule and don't have to
use the Buyers Guide. However, you can use the Guide's list of an
auto's major systems as a shopping tool. You also can ask the
seller if you can have the vehicle inspected by your mechanic.
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Private sales
usually are not covered by the "implied warranties" of
state law. That means a private sale probably will be on an
"as is" basis, unless your purchase agreement with the
seller specifically states otherwise. If you have a written
contract, the seller must live up to the promises stated in the
contract. The car also may be covered by a manufacturer's warranty
or a separately purchased service contract. However, warranties
and service contracts may not be transferable, and other limits or
costs may apply. Before you buy the car, ask to review its
warranty or service contract.
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Many states do not
require individuals to ensure that their vehicles will pass state
inspection or carry a minimum warranty before they offer them for
sale. Ask your state Attorney General's office or local consumer
protection agency about the requirements in your state.
Whether you buy a used
car from a dealer, a co-worker, or a neighbor, follow these tips to
learn as much as you can about the car:
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Examine the car
yourself using an inspection checklist. You can find a checklist
in many of the magazine articles, books and Internet sites that
deal with buying a used car.
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Test drive the car
under varied road conditions—on hills, highways, and in
stop-and-go traffic.
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Ask for the car's
maintenance record. If the owner doesn’t have copies, contact
the dealership or repair shop where most of the work was done.
They may share their files with you.
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Talk to the previous
owner, especially if the present owner is unfamiliar with the
car's history.
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Have the car
inspected by a mechanic you hire.
If you have a problem
that you think is covered by a warranty or service contract, follow
the instructions to get service. If a dispute arises, there are
several steps you can take:
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Try to work it out
with the dealer. Talk with the salesperson or, if necessary, the
owner of the dealership. Many problems can be resolved at this
level. However, if you believe you're entitled to service, but the
dealer disagrees, you can take other steps.
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If your warranty is
backed by a car manufacturer, contact the local representative of
the manufacturer. The local or zone representative is authorized
to adjust and decide about warranty service and repairs to satisfy
customers. Some manufacturers also are willing to repair certain
problems in specific models for free, even if the manufacturer's
warranty does not cover the problem. Ask the manufacturer's zone
representative or the service department of a franchised
dealership that sells your car model whether there is such a
policy.
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Contact your local
Better Business Bureau, state Attorney General, or the Department
of Motor Vehicles. You also might consider using a dispute
resolution organization to arbitrate your disagreement if you and
the dealer are willing. Under the terms of many warranties, this
may be a required first step before you can sue the dealer or
manufacturer. Check your warranty to see if this is the case. If
you bought your car from a franchised dealer, you may be able to
seek mediation through the Automotive Consumer Action Program (AUTOCAP),
a dispute resolution program coordinated nationally by the
National Automobile Dealers Association and sponsored through
state and local dealer associations in many cities. Check with the
dealer association in your area to see if they operate a mediation
program.
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If none of these
steps is successful, small claims court is an option. Here, you
can resolve disputes involving small amounts of money, often
without an attorney. The clerk of your local small claims court
can tell you how to file a suit and what the dollar limit is in
your state.
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The Magnuson-Moss
Warranty Act also may be helpful. Under this federal law, you can
sue based on breach of express warranties, implied warranties, or
a service contract. If successful, consumers can recover
reasonable attorneys’ fees and other court costs. A lawyer can
advise you if this law applies.
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